A hike up Cathedral rock, especially at sunrise or sunset is unforgettable. Rising sharply above the desert floor, Cathedral is topped by twin spires, and a large saddle in between that offers spectacular views of both the east and western portions of Sedona. The hike from Back O' Beyond trail is relatively easy, and although I've heard you can hike up from the Red Rock Crossing creek area, I haven't yet tried that side of the mountain.
If you plan to catch the sunrise, start about 45 minutes beforehand in order to give yourself plenty of time. The sun breaks over the far buttes in blazing glory and the rocks light up with the most incredible orange-red as the sun brings them to life.
At sunset you can sit on one of the many shelves on the western side of the saddle and watch the creek below turn to silvery glass while the light dissolves into the landscape. Ravens squawk overhead, zooming in between the buttes and laughing at life while the sky turns a most magnificent blue. Bring a blanket or jacket in the spring or fall. The temperature drops quickly in the high desert.
There are charming legends etched in the stones here. From the west side of the saddle look back at the two spires in between the main ones and you will notice that they look like a man and woman standing back to back. According to the story the man and woman once lived in the peaceful valley below. However, they were anything but peaceful! The bickered incessantly until one day the Great Spirit told them that they must reconcile their differences or their hearts would harden and they would turn to stone. Unfortunately, they never came to agreement and today their forms are etched in the spires as a testament to what happens when two people don't find peace with one another!
With or without the legends, Cathedral is indeed a sacred spot. The vortex is a conical pile of black lava rocks just below the western ledge of the saddle. You can follow a very narrow trail there and climb carefully up the rocks. I felt quite happily dizzy when I attempted this. Go slow. If you are sensitive to energy you may feel as if you are entering a strong current at this point. And even if you're not interested in feeling energy, you will certainly enjoy the spectacular views that this relatively easy climb affords you.
